Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
